Links to the 150th Anniversary

Monday, June 22, 2015

Why this blog?


Gettysburg Army of the Virginia 
Welcome to my experiences  of  Civil War 150th anniversary commemorations in 2014-15 which will end with a trip through Virginia and on to Appomattox, where two great generals met face to face  for the first surrender in a devastating struggle .  The blog is part travelogue, part book report, part photo-journal, part song book and musings. What can be learned from  this war that created over 625,000 casualties ( some say as many as 820,000. In WW2  403,000 American soldiers were lost).

I am inspired by this quote of W.H. Murray from the Scottish Himalayan Expedition

Until one is committed there is hesitancy, the chance to draw back...[With commitment] All sorts of things occur that help one that would never otherwise have occurred. A whole stream of events issues from the decision, raising in one's favor all manner of unforeseen incidents and meetings and material assistance which no man could have dreamt would come his way.

With Generals Meade and Lee at Gettsyburg
Since April 2014 I have  read books, trolled websites, taken courses, attended reenactments, taken a trip to Gettysburg and through Virginia, and planned the dates to other battle sites. Much of this has generated eye opening conversations with re-enacters, Civil War historians and enthusiasts along with trained guides. Old and new friends have surfaced as knowledgeable and engaged resources for my self study.

So welcome. Check in as much as you want and make comments as you feel motivated.

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Hannah Reynolds musical version

April 13, 1865 Three  days on this earth

My name is Hannah Reynolds
I live here in Virginia
I cook and do the housework
I am a slave

My master Doctor Coleman
Lives west of Appomattox
He treats me well and kindly
I am his slave

     And the war came to the east
     from Manassas to Petersburg
     They sent their boys to die
     600,000 and more we heard
     While we lived a peaceful life

My name is Hannah Reynolds
My husband he lives with me
I cook he does the hard work
We are both slaves

       And the war came to our town
      cannon fire pierced the evening light
       The bayonets gleaming in the air
       We could hear the rebel battle cry
        Now we lived a life of fear
     
        And the war came to our road
         At dawn on the ridge across the field
         union horses  took their place 
        Through fog and smoke we heard the rebels yield
         April 10 Lee's surrender day

My master Dr. Coleman
Heard the guns firing
Left with his wife and daughter
But not with his slaves
          
      And the war came to our house
      Men running round with shouts and commands
      The shot went through the door
      It hit me and I tumbled down
      Lying on the cleanest floor

My name is Hannah Reynolds
The soldiers could not heal me
Doctors treated me so kindly
Was I still a slave?

My name is Hannah Reynolds
I died near Appomattox
but three days upon this earth
I was no slave


Wednesday, May 6, 2015

150 year old poem, modern day 'civil war' Grief is all around us now

The news is now filled with stories of the  modern day 'civil war' From Ferguson to Baltimore, with so many black men and women murdered and incarcerated the divide is not master and slave, plantation and freedom. But the effects are the same.Separate universes that turn people against each other.
The 1865 Civil War ends followed by grief and consideration of reconstruction. The current war seems never ending.

Here is a story about poetry, spring, lilacs and memory posted on my brother's facebook page
When Lilacs Last in the Dooryard Bloom'd
My sister, Tobie, and I were in Ford's Theater the night of April 14, 2015, 150 years to the minute since Lincoln's assassination. Then out to Tenth Street to commemorate and reenact the vigil where people assembled then, as he struggled for life in the house across the street. Tobie had gone to Appomatox Court House for the commemoration of Lee's surrender on April 9, so we could feel how soon the shock of his death came after the relief and celebration of the end of the war.
Barbara mentioned tonight how wonderful our lilacs smell on the cool night breeze. Whitman's poem, written in grief at Lincoln's passing, came to mind. I read it all the way through for the first time, the first time it made sense to me, the first time I could feel it.

When Lilacs Last in the Dooryard Bloom’d

By Walt Whitman
1
When lilacs last in the dooryard bloom’d,
And the great star early droop’d in the western sky in the night,
I mourn’d, and yet shall mourn with ever-returning spring.

Ever-returning spring, trinity sure to me you bring,
Lilac blooming perennial and drooping star in the west,
And thought of him I love.

2
O powerful western fallen star!
O shades of night—O moody, tearful night!
O great star disappear’d—O the black murk that hides the star!
O cruel hands that hold me powerless—O helpless soul of me!
O harsh surrounding cloud that will not free my soul.

3
In the dooryard fronting an old farm-house near the white-wash’d palings,
Stands the lilac-bush tall-growing with heart-shaped leaves of rich green,
With many a pointed blossom rising delicate, with the perfume strong I love,
With every leaf a miracle—and from this bush in the dooryard,
With delicate-color’d blossoms and heart-shaped leaves of rich green,
A sprig with its flower I break.

4
In the swamp in secluded recesses,
A shy and hidden bird is warbling a song.

Solitary the thrush,
The hermit withdrawn to himself, avoiding the settlements,
Sings by himself a song.

Song of the bleeding throat,
Death’s outlet song of life, (for well dear brother I know,
If thou wast not granted to sing thou would’st surely die.)

5
Over the breast of the spring, the land, amid cities,
Amid lanes and through old woods, where lately the violets peep’d from the ground, spotting the gray debris,
Amid the grass in the fields each side of the lanes, passing the endless grass,
Passing the yellow-spear’d wheat, every grain from its shroud in the dark-brown fields uprisen,
Passing the apple-tree blows of white and pink in the orchards,
Carrying a corpse to where it shall rest in the grave,
Night and day journeys a coffin.

6
Coffin that passes through lanes and streets,
Through day and night with the great cloud darkening the land,
With the pomp of the inloop’d flags with the cities draped in black,
With the show of the States themselves as of crape-veil’d women standing,
With processions long and winding and the flambeaus of the night,
With the countless torches lit, with the silent sea of faces and the unbared heads,
With the waiting depot, the arriving coffin, and the sombre faces,
With dirges through the night, with the thousand voices rising strong and solemn,
With all the mournful voices of the dirges pour’d around the coffin,
The dim-lit churches and the shuddering organs—where amid these you journey,
With the tolling tolling bells’ perpetual clang,
Here, coffin that slowly passes,
I give you my sprig of lilac.

7
(Nor for you, for one alone,
Blossoms and branches green to coffins all I bring,
For fresh as the morning, thus would I chant a song for you O sane and sacred death.

All over bouquets of roses,
O death, I cover you over with roses and early lilies,
But mostly and now the lilac that blooms the first,
Copious I break, I break the sprigs from the bushes,
With loaded arms I come, pouring for you,
For you and the coffins all of you O death.)

8
O western orb sailing the heaven,
Now I know what you must have meant as a month since I walk’d,
As I walk’d in silence the transparent shadowy night,
As I saw you had something to tell as you bent to me night after night,
As you droop’d from the sky low down as if to my side, (while the other stars all look’d on,)
As we wander’d together the solemn night, (for something I know not what kept me from sleep,)
As the night advanced, and I saw on the rim of the west how full you were of woe,
As I stood on the rising ground in the breeze in the cool transparent night,
As I watch’d where you pass’d and was lost in the netherward black of the night,
As my soul in its trouble dissatisfied sank, as where you sad orb,
Concluded, dropt in the night, and was gone.

9
Sing on there in the swamp,
O singer bashful and tender, I hear your notes, I hear your call,
I hear, I come presently, I understand you,
But a moment I linger, for the lustrous star has detain’d me,
The star my departing comrade holds and detains me.

10
O how shall I warble myself for the dead one there I loved?
And how shall I deck my song for the large sweet soul that has gone?
And what shall my perfume be for the grave of him I love?

Sea-winds blown from east and west,
Blown from the Eastern sea and blown from the Western sea, till there on the prairies meeting,
These and with these and the breath of my chant,
I’ll perfume the grave of him I love.

11
O what shall I hang on the chamber walls?
And what shall the pictures be that I hang on the walls,
To adorn the burial-house of him I love?

Pictures of growing spring and farms and homes,
With the Fourth-month eve at sundown, and the gray smoke lucid and bright,
With floods of the yellow gold of the gorgeous, indolent, sinking sun, burning, expanding the air,
With the fresh sweet herbage under foot, and the pale green leaves of the trees prolific,
In the distance the flowing glaze, the breast of the river, with a wind-dapple here and there,
With ranging hills on the banks, with many a line against the sky, and shadows,
And the city at hand with dwellings so dense, and stacks of chimneys,
And all the scenes of life and the workshops, and the workmen homeward returning.

12
Lo, body and soul—this land,
My own Manhattan with spires, and the sparkling and hurrying tides, and the ships,
The varied and ample land, the South and the North in the light, Ohio’s shores and flashing Missouri,
And ever the far-spreading prairies cover’d with grass and corn.

Lo, the most excellent sun so calm and haughty,
The violet and purple morn with just-felt breezes,
The gentle soft-born measureless light,
The miracle spreading bathing all, the fulfill’d noon,
The coming eve delicious, the welcome night and the stars,
Over my cities shining all, enveloping man and land.

13
Sing on, sing on you gray-brown bird,
Sing from the swamps, the recesses, pour your chant from the bushes,
Limitless out of the dusk, out of the cedars and pines.

Sing on dearest brother, warble your reedy song,
Loud human song, with voice of uttermost woe.

O liquid and free and tender!
O wild and loose to my soul—O wondrous singer!
You only I hear—yet the star holds me, (but will soon depart,)
Yet the lilac with mastering odor holds me.

14
Now while I sat in the day and look’d forth,
In the close of the day with its light and the fields of spring, and the farmers preparing their crops,
In the large unconscious scenery of my land with its lakes and forests,
In the heavenly aerial beauty, (after the perturb’d winds and the storms,)
Under the arching heavens of the afternoon swift passing, and the voices of children and women,
The many-moving sea-tides, and I saw the ships how they sail’d,
And the summer approaching with richness, and the fields all busy with labor,
And the infinite separate houses, how they all went on, each with its meals and minutia of daily usages,
And the streets how their throbbings throbb’d, and the cities pent—lo, then and there,
Falling upon them all and among them all, enveloping me with the rest,
Appear’d the cloud, appear’d the long black trail,
And I knew death, its thought, and the sacred knowledge of death.

Then with the knowledge of death as walking one side of me,
And the thought of death close-walking the other side of me,
And I in the middle as with companions, and as holding the hands of companions,
I fled forth to the hiding receiving night that talks not,
Down to the shores of the water, the path by the swamp in the dimness,
To the solemn shadowy cedars and ghostly pines so still.

And the singer so shy to the rest receiv’d me,
The gray-brown bird I know receiv’d us comrades three,
And he sang the carol of death, and a verse for him I love.

From deep secluded recesses,
From the fragrant cedars and the ghostly pines so still,
Came the carol of the bird.

And the charm of the carol rapt me,
As I held as if by their hands my comrades in the night,
And the voice of my spirit tallied the song of the bird.

Come lovely and soothing death,
Undulate round the world, serenely arriving, arriving,
In the day, in the night, to all, to each,
Sooner or later delicate death.

Prais’d be the fathomless universe,
For life and joy, and for objects and knowledge curious,
And for love, sweet love—but praise! praise! praise!
For the sure-enwinding arms of cool-enfolding death.

Dark mother always gliding near with soft feet,
Have none chanted for thee a chant of fullest welcome?
Then I chant it for thee, I glorify thee above all,
I bring thee a song that when thou must indeed come, come unfalteringly.

Approach strong deliveress,
When it is so, when thou hast taken them I joyously sing the dead,
Lost in the loving floating ocean of thee,
Laved in the flood of thy bliss O death.

From me to thee glad serenades,
Dances for thee I propose saluting thee, adornments and feastings for thee,
And the sights of the open landscape and the high-spread sky are fitting,
And life and the fields, and the huge and thoughtful night.

The night in silence under many a star,
The ocean shore and the husky whispering wave whose voice I know,
And the soul turning to thee O vast and well-veil’d death,
And the body gratefully nestling close to thee.

Over the tree-tops I float thee a song,
Over the rising and sinking waves, over the myriad fields and the prairies wide,
Over the dense-pack’d cities all and the teeming wharves and ways,
I float this carol with joy, with joy to thee O death.

15
To the tally of my soul,
Loud and strong kept up the gray-brown bird,
With pure deliberate notes spreading filling the night.

Loud in the pines and cedars dim,
Clear in the freshness moist and the swamp-perfume,
And I with my comrades there in the night.

While my sight that was bound in my eyes unclosed,
As to long panoramas of visions.

And I saw askant the armies,
I saw as in noiseless dreams hundreds of battle-flags,
Borne through the smoke of the battles and pierc’d with missiles I saw them,
And carried hither and yon through the smoke, and torn and bloody,
And at last but a few shreds left on the staffs, (and all in silence,)
And the staffs all splinter’d and broken.

I saw battle-corpses, myriads of them,
And the white skeletons of young men, I saw them,
I saw the debris and debris of all the slain soldiers of the war,
But I saw they were not as was thought,
They themselves were fully at rest, they suffer’d not,
The living remain’d and suffer’d, the mother suffer’d,
And the wife and the child and the musing comrade suffer’d,
And the armies that remain’d suffer’d.

16
Passing the visions, passing the night,
Passing, unloosing the hold of my comrades’ hands,
Passing the song of the hermit bird and the tallying song of my soul,
Victorious song, death’s outlet song, yet varying ever-altering song,
As low and wailing, yet clear the notes, rising and falling, flooding the night,
Sadly sinking and fainting, as warning and warning, and yet again bursting with joy,
Covering the earth and filling the spread of the heaven,
As that powerful psalm in the night I heard from recesses,
Passing, I leave thee lilac with heart-shaped leaves,
I leave thee there in the door-yard, blooming, returning with spring.

I cease from my song for thee,
From my gaze on thee in the west, fronting the west, communing with thee,
O comrade lustrous with silver face in the night.

Yet each to keep and all, retrievements out of the night,
The song, the wondrous chant of the gray-brown bird,
And the tallying chant, the echo arous’d in my soul,
With the lustrous and drooping star with the countenance full of woe,
With the holders holding my hand nearing the call of the bird,
Comrades mine and I in the midst, and their memory ever to keep, for the dead I loved so well,
For the sweetest, wisest soul of all my days and lands—and this for his dear sake,
Lilac and star and bird twined with the chant of my soul,
There in the fragrant pines and the cedars dusk and dim.

Poet Walt Whitman 1819–1892

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

After the death- a reflection


April 30, 2015  Morning minyan GJC
A Talk about the Torah portion Aharet Mot/ After the death from the book of Leviticus

Some of you heard my talk before Pesach about the Union soldiers who cobbled together a seder from very bitter herbs, a brick (to symbolize the charoset) and a lot of wine. The very next week I went on an amazing road trip to commemorate the 150th anniversary following the trail of the final week of the Civil War. This ended in a very moving 4 days at Appomattox and then on to Washington DC for a commemorative program at Ford’s Theater.

When I realized that the parsha./Torah portion this week was Aharet Mot/Kedoshim-I wanted to follow up that talk as this is the 150th anniversary of the weeks when Abraham Lincoln’s funeral train traveled from Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia and beyond.

The train arrived in Philadelphia  on April 22, 1865 and the next morning nearly 500,000 people waited in lines for 19 hours at Independence Hall to pass by the casket. In small towns along its 1400 mile journey, crowds in cities and lone people stood on the side of the road just to catch a glimpse of the 'precious cargo' and stand in silent sorrow. It reached its destination in Springfield Illinois, on May 3.

Aharet Mot refers back to the aftermath of Aaron and his sons inauguration as kohanim (priests) which turned from a most triumphant day only to be dashed by the death of his sons. 

Aharet Mot seems to me to also mirror the most triumphant 4 days of Abraham Lincoln’s life: the final surrender of  Lee to Grant followed by the surrendering of the confederate arms on April 12. 

But just two days later on April 14, Lincoln, in a buoyant mood, surrounded by a national capital in celebration, rode his carriage to Ford’s theater for an evening of much needed entertainment.

Joy only to be dashed by his assassination and ultimate death at 7:22 the next morning.

Aharon’s response was silent sorrow.

So, I invite us to hold a moment of silence in remembrance of that awful time 150 years ago.

Let me finish with this from Lincoln‘s second inaugura which rings true today:
With malice toward none, with charity for all, with firmness in the right as God gives us to see the right, let us strive on to finish the work we are in, to bind up the nation's wounds, to care for him who shall have borne the battle and for his widow and his orphan, to do all which may achieve and cherish a just and lasting peace among ourselves and with all nations.

Thursday, April 16, 2015

A Final Dinner tribute to Lincoln

A long trip to Washington DC takes me through beautiful farm country of Virginia where I pass once again through the Wilderness, that area of burning fires and ultimate slaughter at Cold Harbor and the death of Stonewall Jackson. But it also includes the mighty James River and large swatches of green and blossoms and empty roads that never seem to end.

They end in time for me to arrive in Washington DC so that I can attend the events that now commemorate that horrible evening of April 14, 1865.

The city during the days after the surrender was jubilant. The evenings  full of fireworks. All in the city turned on their lights to illuminate the feelings of relief and joy.

Vigil outside Ford's Theater
Abraham and Mary Lincoln decided to go to the theater, Ford's Theater for an evening of entertainment.  That is where my brother and I are going to go for a special 9:00 pm performance, for an evening of memory..

While I was in Appomattox, I heard about a vigil in front of the theater and tickets for a tour. Marc has managed to get tickets not just to the tour, but has found tickets for inside the theater.

We make an evening of it. First, of course we have to eat dinner. What better place than Chinese- but not just any Chinese restaurant. Noooo, we go to the restaurant that is on the first floor of the boarding house that belonged to Mary Surrat. There with John Wilkes Booth, ninth of ten children born to the famous, eccentric, and hard-drinking actor, Junius Booth they met to conspire with Lewis Powell, David Herold, Michael O'Lauglin, John Surratt, Edman Spangler, Samuel Arnold, George Atzerodt.
 
We arrived rather early, assuming there would be a crowd, so were surprised that it was rather empty. On the outside is a plaque commemorating the location, though most people don't seem to notice it or stop to read.

We ordered and soon enough,  3 men sat next to us. "Are you hear because..."  "Of course." They told us how they couldn't get tickets to the show at the theater because they hadn't become $1000 members of  Ford's Theater. I think both of us were internally smiling, knowing that we had gotten tickets. But best not to boast!

 As the restaurant slowly filled we chatted with young and old. The response was the same

"Of course!"

Letter to Ulysses S. Grant

U.S. Grant was scheduled to go to Ford's Theater on April 14 with Lincoln, but declined to go.

Isaac F. Quinby Rochester NY  to USG April 17
While the whole people are plunged in the deepest grief at the death of our wise and most excellent President there is mingled with it a feeling of thankfulness that you, for whom the same blow was intended, so providentially escaped. If our hopes of the recovery of Secretary Seward are also realized, the Nation will soon arouse itself from its almost stupor of grief, and forebodings of other calamities to follow in the train of this will give place to confidence in the ability of those at the head of our affairs to bring about the peace and National prosperity which seemed so well assured before this sad event. The people hope not less from you in the future than you have accomplished for them in the past, and I speak therefore not in the name of personal friendship alone, but in that the Nation, when I ask you to take all wise precautions to guard against the assassins who may be watching their opportunity to strike at your life. With the most earnest wishes that your life may be spared to your family and to the Nation...

The Papers of Ulysses S. Grant edited by John Y. Simon Vol 14


Me and Judy Collins

After an extraordinary 10 days on the road, I was able to spend the evening of April 14, 2015 in Washington DC Among the many reasons to remember that night one is documented in this picture that Marc managed to get for me.

We were attending the events at Ford's theater in honor of the 150th anniversary of Lincoln's fateful night out after  a joyous day when the city had celebrated the end of the war.

Among the singers for a star studded evening was, gasp, Judy Collins. When I was a teenager, Robin, Sally and I would always see her during her yearly visit to the outdoor stage in Columbia Maryland. Every year.

And even now, her voice is just as crystal clear and simple and beautiful. She sang Amazing Grace, then invited us to sing with her. Not a dry eye.

Outside, I happened to be standing in the back of the crowd when we saw the handlers  bringing her around right next to me. I told her that she was wonderful and that she had always been wonderful. Then Marc snapped this picture. My face is slightly visible to the right. I broke into tears.

Hannah Reynolds April 13, 1865

My name is Hannah Reynolds
I live here in Virginia
I cook and keep the house clean
I am a slave

My master Doctor Coleman
Lives west of Appomattox
He treats me well and kindly
I am his slave

     And the war came to the east
     from Mannasas to Petersburg
     And they sent their boys to die
     600,000 and more we heard
     While we lived a peaceful life


My name is Hannah Reynolds
My husband he lives with me
I clean he does the hard work
We are both slaves

My master Dr. Coleman
Heard the guns firing
He left with his wife and daughter
But not with his slaves

      And the war came to our town
      At night they fought with bayonets and horses
      At dawn on the ridge across the field
      The soldiers fired cannons
      On that final surrender day

      And the war came to our house
      Men running round with shouts and commands
      The shot went through the door
      It hit me and I faltered
      there as I lay

My name is Hannah Reynolds
The soldiers could not heal me
Doctors treated me so kindly
Was I still a slave?

My name is Hannah Reynolds
I lived near Appomattox
Three days upon this earth
I was no slave


To those I met along the way in mourning



Remembrance Day Gettysburg Nov 2014
Manassass
Gettysburg




Appomattox surrender



Farmville VA

People I met along the way in joy

Gettysburg
Ft. McHenry Baltimore
Meade and Lee

Raising the flag
200th Anniversary 
Star Spangled Banner Celebration




 Sept 2014
 April 7 2015
Antietam                                                             Battle of High Bridges


Pennypacker June 2015
Pennypacker Park June 2014
Bob Pifflin, educator, John
Bob Pifflen, educator and John High Bridges Va April 7 2015


High Bridges April 7, 2015
Realtimers under the bridge                                                                  


Appomattox Va April 8, 2015

With 
General Chamberlain









Appomattox Va April 8 2015
(Private)
John Griffiths
General Grant's great great grandson (son of daughter of Grant's son )








Sharp Top Peaks of Otter VA 3500 ft
April 11, 2015



Climbed to the top of Sharp Top mountain with old friend
David Scheim, west of Lynchburg







Mike and Lorane Brown
from Alabama, April 8-12, 2015
April 12 after Stacking of the Arms

Appomattox VA April 12, 2015










Appomattox McLean House April 9, n2015




                                                   General Grant aka Curt Fields 







Photographers 1865, 2015 
Museum of the Confederacy Appomattox April 10, 2015
Mclean House Appomattox NPS photographer, April 9, 2015
Lee meets with Grant

Sailors Creek Union camp April 7 2015
Met Albert and Jacob while lost on the trail at Sailors Creek Battlefield Park











 Chamberlain's assistant






April 7-12 2015





A special shout out to Phil 
from Arkansas












General Grant 
photo bombing 
General Lee












Officers encampment Appomattox April 12, 2015

























     
         










Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Artifacts of the war

Do you want to see bones of soldiers who died in the Civil War? Or medical instruments used to amputate gangrenous limbs? Or the logs of surgeons and doctors that show the seasonal incidences of the diseases that killed over 400,000 men during the war, twice as many as the 200,000 who died on the battlefield?

No?

How about THE bullet that killed Abraham Lincoln?




Or the cuffs of the surgeon who held him while he died?

It's all at the National Museum of Medicine in Silver Spring Maryland. On display now.

Sunday, April 12, 2015

The final Stacking of the Arms

Throughout Appomattox park starting last Friday, many reenactments of the final stacking of the arms were scheduled. This brings me full circle to the reason I spent the last year of my life in this pursuit. It was the story of this event that sounded so poignant
in the telling that I had to, was compelled to see in person.

On April 12, 1865 General Chamberlain walked down the road in dress uniform followed by the military band in full colors. Flags flying, the sound of Battle Cry of Freedom filled the air. The Union troops followed, soon to line up on either side of the road.



In 1865, some 20,000 Confederate soldiers marched on the Stage (coach) Road with rifles, bayonets, musical instruments, ammunition belts. What was extraordinary was that the Union soldiers  saluted as this bedraggled depleted army marched in front of them. And as the Confederates took off their belts and stacked the guns and regimental colors in the center of the road, the Union soldiers stood at  attention in silence. A band played Battle Cry of Freedom, Dixie, and a variety of hymns that would have been familiar and brought some solace to both sides.


So it was on this day 150  years later that about 50 people stood among the 200 or so Union soldiers and watched as the 100 Confederate troops passed by with many civilians among them as well.  As they stacked their arms, one of the civilians was handed the regimental flag, carrying it down the line for all to touch.  I could not imagine his feelings, but saw him hold back tears even as mine were flowing.

What were the tears about? Reaching a personal goal?  Being part of the Union cause?  Stepping into this military guise to experience the pain and sorrow and even pride? Acknowledging the deep felt devotion on either side and wondering if the war is really over even today?


Believe me, when it was over, those of us who had spent the week there could not leave each other or this park that was the most significant battlefield at the end of a long a brutal war.