Bet Ahabah Synagogue

The second surprise of the day was my visit to the Bet Ahabah museum and synagogue. I was greeted by Amy, a 4th (at least) generation member of the synagogue, who introduced me to the  rooms of exhibits in a separate building that included Civil War Life and 'the Other Side of the Curtain' about the Jews from the Soviet Union who settled in Richmond.

Then we wound our way to the sanctuary, which has never been changed since it was built in the late 1870s, except for some painting and addition of steps to the bimah. Stunning stained glass windows around the sides on the first floor and in the overflow balcony sparkle with dedication, one even a signed Tiffany. The synagogue was built in the era of massive organs and large choirs, so although the organ is not functional, it is prominent in the room above the ark.

And in the ark, 6 magnificently dressed Torah scrolls, one a Holocaust Torah.

A visit that I thought would be 30 minutes extended to 90 or so, a private tour and a better sense of the life of Richmond Jews as a strong committed community of Reform, Orthodox and Conservative Jews.

Next trip I will visit the cemetery!

The questions at Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond

Driving to the Hollywood Cemetery this morning I imagined taking a cursory drive through. After having seen so many cemeteries in the past year and taken so many photos and said so many prayers for young and old souls how could I be impressed or moved by another gravestone? Yet this was a must see, so I was told, in part due to the presidents, politicians, generals and other 'notables' interred here.

James Monroe

Julia Tyler age 21

The cemetery is 10 miles of stately grounds, cherry trees in full bloom, overlooking the James River. Winding roads weave up hills and down passing thousands of stone markers, statues and other types of memorials to the dead.

 I first chose only one or two monuments to visit. Up Confederate Ave, to the right is the Confederate monument, which I first avoided,  and instead headed down to the road along the James that led to Presidents Circle. There I found James Monroe's tomb enclosed by a cathedral like metal housing. And around this were the stones and statues of President Tyler's family. One is of  his daughter Julia, an angel topping her stone and the age that she died-21. What is her story? What is her STORY?   Sitting on a bench, looking out over the James River,  this is what guided my prayers and silent conversation. The question to all around me: What is your story? What did you leave to the world? What did you do in life to deserve the glowing words of praise on your stone?

 But at Jefferson Davis' monument, I had a different question/  Why? Why?

Why? Did you  believe so fervently that your cause was  just, that defense of slavery was enough of a reason to cause your people to bleed?  I sat and spoke with him about this. At first he only answered with his other accomplishments, as a West Point graduate, a soldier, a U.S. Senator, U.S Secretary of War. Only after I moved to behind him did he introduce himself as President Davis through his wife Varina.  But I did not get an answer. I will have to keep asking.

At the Confederate monument, and the soldiers' field I did not question. Rather I found myself gently touching the headstones, whispering to each of them, "Rest". Yitkadal, yitkadash...(the first words of the Jewish prayer for mourners)

By the waters of the James

In his brilliance, George Washington as president, envisioned a canal system that would span Virginia as an economic boon. Some of this was realized, but not completed before being supplanted by the newfangled railroad. And so it was, that on April 2, 3 and 4th,  1865 it was the railroads and the bridges that would be the focal point of the devastating evacuations from Richmond.

pilons of the evacuation bridges

First Jefferson Davis would ride the rails to Danville, setting up a govt in exile. Then the citizens would make their escape and finally the army with all its gear and horses, and wagons and some artillery would cross the Mayo bridge attempting to burn it behind them, so not to be followed by the Union troops.

ramp to canal walk

The canal system was left to degrade, but in the 1990s, the city of Richmond through citizen action revived the entire river system and developed  a canal walk that winds along the James River.  This reminds me of the New York  City Highline, also initiated by citizens that revived a desolate area of the city.
Here in Richmond, this park system includes  also vestiges of the slave market system of which Richmond was a center. And finally as a reminder that Virginia's history is the history of explorers and wanderers, there is a John Smith trail, symbolized by the sails of a ship.  So it is that one can walk, bike and picnic here as a modern day American on this beautiful sunny and breezy April day.

plaque to the  soldiers who died at Belle Isle prison. 

Included in this park system is Belle Isle. Now a spot for picnicking, hiking and biking, at the end of the bridge is the site of the notorious prison encampment where 1000 soldiers died. Soldiers were housed in tents with blankets, though many did not receive even these bare essentials.  In the picture are rusted out structures of an ironworks company. Nothing remains of the prison itself.

As the sun is setting, surrounded by these 2015 walkers, runners with their heart rate gadgets, families here for a delicious spring outing, kids laughing and playing soccer on the grass, teens in small gaggles kidding around with friends, I absorb the days journey from Civil War to Revolutionary times to the present.

Three days in April

The most moving find of the day is stumbling upon the walkway out over the James that brings into the view the remnants in words and structures the last days of Richmond's fall.

Along the wooden path are engraved quotes from the days by citizens, soldiers, President Lincoln, and those of the US CT  (US Colored Troops) who were the first soldiers to enter the city after the evacuation.




This is a quiet monument. No statues of men on horses, no gruesome pictures or bronzed plaques. Instead simple statements of those who experienced it under foot surrounded by the rushing water of the powerful river.

A beautiful day in Richmond

It is quiet here today, Easter Sunday. Few people are out, but the blooms on the cherry trees and the yellow of the daffodils, sparkle throughout the city. The temperature is warm enough to wear only a light jacket and even later in the day, sandals.  Entering the city, it is easy to find the Museum of the Confederacy and the executive mansion of Jefferson Davis and his family.

This is a good first stop, as the museum covers each year of the war in a managable amount of information and interesting artifacts. Each battle is described along with actual photographs, lithographs. My favorites, Lee's hat and the map of the the United States in red and blue with a list of the states in secession.


I remember a song listing the states in order that I heard in Gettysburg during the evening program at the church on Remembrance Day last November.  Today  it seemed easy to create a mneumonic rhyming song that could be used to remember them.

I was surprised to see the Virginia articles of succession because it is relevant to our current situation in Indiana. The Confederate states continually invoke states rights and the oppression and imposition of the federal govt  on their rights to own slaves. And they were right in a fashion. Slavery was part of the original constitution. So in Indiana where there are no civil protections  for LGBT folks, rejecting people for pizza delivery for a wedding has not legal' discriminatory basis.

Here is one story about Jefferson Davis that has been part of the legends and counter legends of the time. When he was running from soldiers on the night of his eventual capture, he had grabbed his wife, Varina's night gown and shawl, and so it looked like he was wearing 'women's clothes'. But here in a broadside  a Union soldier adamantly denies it all in no uncertain terms.

Getting Started on the Road Trip

Leaving Silver Spring full of many emotions. First excitement, but frankly alongside this is anxiety, a touch of fear that creeps in when I think of the possibilities of being lost in Richmond, or not having quite enough to do and even of being 'disappointed' at what I experience. Then I remember two routines that keeps me going through any lulls: have a conversation with someone every hour. A guard, a clerk, another tourist, a native, anyone. And if there is no obvious circumstance, initiate a conversation. The second is look out for and welcome surprises,  revel in them.

Today, the trip begins with a straight drive down I95. It is the excitement now that I can feel as I see signs for places that have real meaning to me:
Fredericksburg
Ni River
Po River
Spotsylvania
Charlottesville
Cold Harbor

And finally Richmond. It has begun.

The Beginning Inspiration

Some 25 years ago, I happened to find myself in Appomattox. I don't remember why I was in the area, or what the reason was for stopping, but we spent enough time there to hear 'the story of the end of the war'.  The guide painted such a vivid picture of Lee on his horse riding to the surrender as Union soldiers lined on each side of the road in a position of honor. And in that moment I thought 'How amazing it would be to see a reenactment of this".

Forward to 2013 and the realization that the US was in the middle of commemorating the 150th anniversary of the Civil War, and that the commemoration of the Appomattox campaign would take place in April 2015.

An opportunity presented itself to bring that still small voice from my first visit to a vocal cheer.

So began the adventure that has already submerged me in a history I have never understood, wrapping me in emotions, stories, music, and comrades who have a passion for the subject and the time.

That and much more.